Brand New to Home Winemaking

Question:

Folks, Decided to carry on the family tradition of wine making and bought a wine making kit from Beer-Wine with the following: Our Complete Wine Equipment Kit contains a primary and glass secondary fermenter, hydrometer, stopper, fermentation lock, carboy handle, autosiphon, siphon hose, bottle filler, sterilizer, brushes, corker, corks and reference book I also purchased Brew Kings Vintners Reserve Selection Cabernet wine kit. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this kit, and if so, any advice? Ultimately I would love to make a fresh grape wine, but realize I need more experience first. I would really appreciate any help and advice. Thanks! P.S. Anyone in the Southern New Jersey area know where to get winemaing supplies?

Response:

I have found that the Brew King Vintner’s Reserve produce a fuller bodied wine when less water is added.  We are adding water to about 5.5 gallons instead of the 6.0 in the instructions. You will notice on the instructions there is a range of starting Specific Gravity (after addition of water).  If you add to about 5 gallons and read your hydrometer you will get  a reading with a much higher number.  You can slowly add water till you read the higher number listed in your instructions.  This has come out to about 5.5 or 5.75 gallons for us.  It makes a much better wine.  Or just add to 5.5 gallons like we have done (instead of the 6 gallons). We find that the BREWKING Selection kits are far better in taste and body and are well worth the extra 30 bucks.  Good luck and don’t fret over your wine.  We have found in our 4 months and 4 kits that it is very forgiving. Good Luck — KB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Folks, Decided to carry on the family tradition of wine making and bought a wine making kit from Beer-Wine with the following: Our Complete Wine Equipment Kit contains a primary and glass secondary fermenter, hydrometer, stopper, fermentation lock, carboy handle, autosiphon, siphon hose, bottle filler, sterilizer, brushes, corker, corks and reference book I also purchased Brew Kings Vintners Reserve Selection Cabernet wine kit. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this kit, and if so, any advice? Ultimately I would love to make a fresh grape wine, but realize I need more experience first. I would really appreciate any help and advice. Thanks! P.S. Anyone in the Southern New Jersey area know where to get winemaing supplies?

Response:

I’m don’t know where you are in "southern NJ" but I have had good luck with purchases at K&R Enterprises in Jackson (near Six Flags).  He is only open in the evenings and on weekends.  See http://home.att.net/~krenterprises I’ve also had good luck in Philadelphia at Brew By You.  See www.brewbyyou.net. Good luck. Gerald

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Folks, Decided to carry on the family tradition of wine making and bought a wine making kit from Beer-Wine with the following: Our Complete Wine Equipment Kit contains a primary and glass secondary fermenter, hydrometer, stopper, fermentation lock, carboy handle, autosiphon, siphon hose, bottle filler, sterilizer, brushes, corker, corks and reference book I also purchased Brew Kings Vintners Reserve Selection Cabernet wine kit. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this kit, and if so, any advice? Ultimately I would love to make a fresh grape wine, but realize I need more experience first. I would really appreciate any help and advice. Thanks! P.S. Anyone in the Southern New Jersey area know where to get winemaing supplies?

Response:

Hi guy, Make the wine by following the instruction you find in the kit! Age the wine for about 3 months and then try you first bottle. You will enjoy that first bottle! Eddie V.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Folks, Decided to carry on the family tradition of wine making and bought a wine making kit from Beer-Wine with the following: Our Complete Wine Equipment Kit contains a primary and glass secondary fermenter, hydrometer, stopper, fermentation lock, carboy handle, autosiphon, siphon hose, bottle filler, sterilizer, brushes, corker, corks and reference book I also purchased Brew Kings Vintners Reserve Selection Cabernet wine kit. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this kit, and if so, any advice? Ultimately I would love to make a fresh grape wine, but realize I need more experience first. I would really appreciate any help and advice. Thanks! P.S. Anyone in the Southern New Jersey area know where to get winemaing supplies?

Response:

Spray Sanitazer

Question:

Hi Scott, Unlike beer, wine has about 12 percent alcohol and a pH of 3.5 or so.  The relatively high alcohol and the low pH produce a very inhospitable environment to most microbes.  In general, bugs capable of surviving in your kitchen environment cannot survive in wine, and the bugs in your wine cannot survive in your kitchen.  Think clean, not sterile. Regards, lum

Good thread and very good, sensible advice Lum.  I sometimes feel guilty about not sterilizing enough and sometimes use sterile practices that make no sense from reading this thread.  But in 30 years I have never had a batch go bad where I could point to a contamination as the likely cause.  I think I will relax a little in the future and not worry so much. This may be a first!  Usually reading these threads make me worry more! ;o) Ray

Response:

Good thread and very good, sensible advice Lum.  I sometimes feel guilty about not sterilizing enough and sometimes use sterile practices that make no sense from reading this thread.  But in 30 years I have never had a batch go bad where I could point to a contamination as the likely cause.  I think I will relax a little in the future and not worry so much. This may be a first!  Usually reading these threads make me worry more! ;o) Ray

If you are making good wine and having fun, it seems to me there isn’t much incentive for changing Ray. Best Regards, lum – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Well, I guess some of you think this will work.  As others have suggested, I do wash all my instruments and containers prior to use as well as after, however, since don’t have much space to devote to this hobby, nor does it get its own set of tools (short of the hygrometer), all the measuring spoons, cups, bowls, mixing spoons, pans, etc are all general kitchen equipment that is banged around and used with other foodstuff inbetween batches.  I would love to have my own brewing work area, but until that happens, clean and sanitize everything before and after use. Probably its overkill, however I have had a few batches of beer go bad and I hate wasting all that time and energy, not to mention the money, and pour it down the drain over a spoon that was not sanitized. I think I will try a bottle with idophor in it for my mixing spoon, hydrometer and theif this batch. thanks to those who responded… Scott

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, I guess some of you think this will work.  As others have suggested, I do wash all my instruments and containers prior to use as well as after, however, since don’t have much space to devote to this hobby, nor does it get its own set of tools (short of the hygrometer), all the measuring spoons, cups, bowls, mixing spoons, pans, etc are all general kitchen equipment that is banged around and used with other foodstuff inbetween batches.  I would love to have my own brewing work area, but until that happens, clean and sanitize everything before and after use. Probably its overkill, however I have had a few batches of beer go bad and I hate wasting all that time and energy, not to mention the money, and pour it down the drain over a spoon that was not sanitized. I think I will try a bottle with idophor in it for my mixing spoon, hydrometer and theif this batch. thanks to those who responded… Scott

Hi Scott, Unlike beer, wine has about 12 percent alcohol and a pH of 3.5 or so.  The relatively high alcohol and the low pH produce a very inhospitable environment to most microbes.  In general, bugs capable of surviving in your kitchen environment cannot survive in wine, and the bugs in your wine cannot survive in your kitchen.  Think clean, not sterile. Regards, lum

Response:

Jeff, You’re not doing anything harmful, so not to worry. But are you doing anything helpful? Maybe not, at least in some things, I think. Dipping tools in meta solution before use probably does nothing except transfer a bit into the wine/must. Harmless, but not necessary in an otherwise protected wine. Splashing 500ml into a carboy & leaving it to store? Might provide some theoretical benefit, if the O2 doesn’t gobble up all the SO2. If the carboy is really clean to begin with, this is also probably unnecessary. Still, I often refill my 1 gal jugs with water, add a pinch of K-meta, cap, and store them back in the storage area. I figure the extra mass of water might help moderate any temp swings, and I figure the SO2 prevents bad things from developing in the water. Probably unnecessary, but cheap insurance. Besides, when I want a jug, it’s just a matter of pouring out the water without rinsing. K-meta in solution and not used up by ambient O2 is a good way to inhibit the growth of many unwanted microbes, and prevent oxidation, but there are better things for sterilizing surfaces, if you think that’s necessary.(I mostly don’t.) Wine itself kills most germs. There’s more than one way to skin a cat, and others will prefer to do differently. ;-)          Mike MTM – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK, Damn, now I’m not clear on the effective usage of K-Metabisulfite….  Have I been using a bunch of this stuff for nothing?  Will putting say 500ml in a primary fermenter or a carboy & splashing it around do any good? Or, will keeping a half gallon jug of solution for dipping a hydrometer, spoon or anything else into before putting it in the wine, is this useless? Or storing carboys or primaries with 500ml of solution in them, any good? What are the effective uses of K-Metabisulfite?  Perhaps I have been a bit obsessive about what I thought were good sanitation practices, have I been completely off base doing these things, like pouring solution over everything I use after washing & before letting it come in contact with the wine? Jeff

Response:

OK, Damn, now I’m not clear on the effective usage of K-Metabisulfite….  Have I been using a bunch of this stuff for nothing?  Will putting say 500ml in a primary fermenter or a carboy & splashing it around do any good? Or, will keeping a half gallon jug of solution for dipping a hydrometer, spoon or anything else into before putting it in the wine, is this useless? Or storing carboys or primaries with 500ml of solution in them, any good? What are the effective uses of K-Metabisulfite?  Perhaps I have been a bit obsessive about what I thought were good sanitation practices, have I been completely off base doing these things, like pouring solution over everything I use after washing & before letting it come in contact with the wine? Jeff

Response:

What exactly are you spraying?  I am using a chlorine based solution called Chloriclean, sold at Wine Kitz.  Works well for getting rid of discolouration on bottles, hoses and buckets.  Here is their description: Diversol (Chloriclean) Chloriclean – 250 grams. An industrial quality chlorine-based sanitizing cleaner, used extensively in dairy plants. See package for usage. It is much more effective in cleaning and sanitizing than metabisulphite alone. Be sure to rinse all equipment well with water after using Diversol. (http://www.winekitz.com/store/productlist.cgi?file=equipment) I’m not a huge fan of using chlorine but I  figure that if it is rinsed well enough, there should be no problem. I am also a firm believer in cleaning all equipment before and after. This makes the job a whole lot easier. I also like the idea of using a high proof alcohol as a sanitzer but I am unsure of its effectiveness. -Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been using a spray bottle for the past year or so and think it is a really easy way to quickly sanitize most of the things a home winemaker would use (not a mega-gallon bladder press).  Great for buckets, carboys, spoons, bottles and it even works well with spraying into hoses.  I got the idea from a local wine shop that I once made a kit wine at. According to others who answered, you are using a spray bottle for nothing.  They don’t and are as satisfied with the result as you are. BTW, I was/am doing it too but will reconsider. Guy

Response:

I keep a spray bottle of iodophor handy.  Just about 7 or 8 drops into a 16oz of water is all that is required.  I replace it when the color fades. I was just sent this link from a friend – the author (not my friend) does a great job both discussing the use (with the help of the manufacturer) and testing (non-scientifically) the contamination from iodophor.  My friend makes beer, so I think the link may have come from rec.crafts.beermaking. http://www.bayareamashers.org/iodophor.htm Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Response:

I’ve been using a spray bottle for the past year or so and think it is a really easy way to quickly sanitize most of the things a home winemaker would use (not a mega-gallon bladder press).  Great for buckets, carboys, spoons, bottles and it even works well with spraying into hoses.  I got the idea from a local wine shop that I once made a kit wine at.

According to others who answered, you are using a spray bottle for nothing.  They don’t and are as satisfied with the result as you are. BTW, I was/am doing it too but will reconsider. Guy

Response:

I’ve been making beer for close to 5 years now and I find Iodophor to be my #1 choice in quick sanitizing equipment, it runs about $8.00 for 32 ounces only takes 1 1/2 tsp per gallon supposedly kills most all germs within 2 minutes, they say at that particular mix rate it is non toxic when drip dried but I always rinse in hot water, also it keeps it strength for days but will stain some plastics. Beer is supposedly more prone to bacterial infection than wine and I’ve made around 50 five gallon batches and have never had a infection yet ;o)) knock on wood. Almost forgot I also use drug store strength ethyl alcohol in a spray bottle set to mist for light application around primary lids secondary stoppers before opening etc but I don’t let it come in contact with the product in any way. Rick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Response:

I’ve been using a spray bottle for the past year or so and think it is a really easy way to quickly sanitize most of the things a home winemaker would use (not a mega-gallon bladder press).  Great for buckets, carboys, spoons, bottles and it even works well with spraying into hoses.  I got the idea from a local wine shop that I once made a kit wine at. -Chris – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Response:

Scott, Don’t bother. It’s a tempting idea, but I would never do it for two reasons:   First, I always triple rinse my eqpt. & bottles when I’m done and rinse again before using. I’ve never had a problem in (cough, cough) years. Second, if you’re talking about metabisulfite as a sanitizer, it doesn’t work as a surface disinfectant. That just isn’t what it does.  Remember that SO2 ion reacts quickly with oxygen, and in a flash the solution you splash or spray on a surface is inactive anyway. Other _disinfectants_ like iodine, chlorine, denatured alcohol, or quartenary ammonium compounds work, but I’d rather not have them near my wine. BTW, I generally store my unused carboys filled with water & a pinch of meta. They do seem to smell better after long-term storage that way. Please don’t think this posting as a personal affront, and I don’t mean to be in any way  nasty or derogatory . It’s just that you brought up something that always gets me going. Peace            Mike MTM

Response:

I think its a great idea!  Thanks for the tip- now you don’t have to constantly be mixing up a small batch of sanitizer, or worse, failing to do so.  The big issue would be, what is the shelf life of the sanitizer solution? — KB "Change is the law of life, and those who look only to the past and present are certain to miss the future."

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Response:

Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.

I usually sanitize all my equipment first and last thing during brewing, but, I usually keep a small spray bottle of "grain alcohol" for those "quick cleanings"(anytime I question what my equipment has come in contact with during my brew session). Basically for my own piece of mind. Clint

Response:

I can’t imagine "sanitizing" a 5,000 gallon tank or a large bladder press

with sulfite solution. No kidding!  Besides, what would be the point of sanitizing a press just prior to dumping a load of grapes, fresh from the field, into it?  They certainly don’t wash the grapes.  They come in with all sorts of MOG on them. Tom S

Response:

What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Hi Scott, How about doing what the pros do?  They wash their equipment with clean water before using it, and then they wash the equipment again when the job is finished. I can’t imagine "sanitizing" a 5,000 gallon tank or a large bladder press with sulfite solution. Good luck, lum

Response:

What about this idea? Put the sanitizer in a spray bottle to make it easier to sanitize spoons, thermometers, hydrometers etc. when the wine is in the fermenter/secondary.  Rather than mixing the stuff everytime or having a larger batch in the fridge, just spray it on the items, wait for the necessary time and use. Has anyone tried this? Scott

Response:

Winemaking Supplies Mail-order in Canada

Question:

None of the local suppliers seem to carry Red Star’s Cote des Blancs yeast, so I plan to order some by mail before summer (fresh fruit) arrives.  Can anyone point me toward a mail-order company in Canada that would carry this yeast?   Also, is there a Lalvin yeast with similar characteristics to Cote des Blancs (formerly Epernay 2)?   Phil Loseth Prince Albert, Saskatchewan,  Canada To reply, remove KILLJUNK from address.

Response:

try. http://homecraft.on.ca – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – None of the local suppliers seem to carry Red Star’s Cote des Blancs yeast, so I plan to order some by mail before summer (fresh fruit) arrives.  Can anyone point me toward a mail-order company in Canada that would carry this yeast? Also, is there a Lalvin yeast with similar characteristics to Cote des Blancs (formerly Epernay 2)? Phil Loseth Prince Albert, Saskatchewan,  Canada To reply, remove KILLJUNK from address.

Response:

Wine Labels & Alcohol Content

Question:

I need help.  I have only been making wine since February of this year. My first two batches were pretty successful and I am getting ready to bottle a batch of Apricot and a batch of a Chat Dormant.  So far I have been using concentrates which are working fine.  I have two questions: 1) How do you measure the alcohol content?  I have a hydrometer which has an alcohol by volume but when it’s time to bottle the wine the hydrometer is reading 0 alcohol by volume because the specific gravity is under 1000 – I don’t understand and do not have time to go to the library.

Take your beginning S.G. and subtract from this number your ending S.G. Divide this result by .074 to get an approximate alcohol content expressed as a percentage. 2) Does anyone know where I can get cheap labels for my wine.  I have been going to the wine supply store for my labels but I’m paying almost $9 for only 32 labels.

Try making your own and either glue them on the bottle or use wide clear tape to cover the entire label. I have made some pretty good labels with my computer. Family members love to get a gift of a bottle of wine with our family name on it. I would appreciate any help. Thank you, Susan Jacobs

Good luck. Roger

Response:

Try making your own. you can go two ways here – print onto plain paper cut,  & glue-stick on, or use the Avery Label paper, which is pre-glued.  Be aware that anything other than a laser printed label will run.  However, if you wish colour & have an ink jet type of printer , make up the templates and then make colour photocopies at Staples, Office Depot or somewhere. Harry Demidavicius – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need help.  I have only been making wine since February of this year. My first two batches were pretty successful and I am getting ready to bottle a batch of Apricot and a batch of a Chat Dormant.  So far I have been using concentrates which are working fine.  I have two questions: 1) How do you measure the alcohol content?  I have a hydrometer which has an alcohol by volume but when it’s time to bottle the wine the hydrometer is reading 0 alcohol by volume because the specific gravity is under 1000 – I don’t understand and do not have time to go to the library. 2) Does anyone know where I can get cheap labels for my wine.  I have been going to the wine supply store for my labels but I’m paying almost $9 for only 32 labels. I would appreciate any help. Thank you, Susan Jacobs

Response:

Susan, By the time your Hydrometer reading drops to below 1000 (usually .990) your fermentation is virtually over. To calculate potential alcohol you need to know what the reading was before you added the yeast. Let us say it was 1.090 (typical start reading for a red wine). The potential alcohol scale woudl read 12%.  Therefore, If wine fermetns out to reading .990 then your wine will have about 12% alcohol by volume. Paul Jean Jr. Publisher, Getting Started in Winemaking. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I need help.  I have only been making wine since February of this year. My first two batches were pretty successful and I am getting ready to bottle a batch of Apricot and a batch of a Chat Dormant.  So far I have been using concentrates which are working fine.  I have two questions: 1) How do you measure the alcohol content?  I have a hydrometer which has an alcohol by volume but when it’s time to bottle the wine the hydrometer is reading 0 alcohol by volume because the specific gravity is under 1000 – I don’t understand and do not have time to go to the library. 2) Does anyone know where I can get cheap labels for my wine.  I have been going to the wine supply store for my labels but I’m paying almost $9 for only 32 labels. I would appreciate any help. Thank you, Susan Jacobs

Response:

I need help.  I have only been making wine since February of this year. My first two batches were pretty successful and I am getting ready to bottle a batch of Apricot and a batch of a Chat Dormant.  So far I have been using concentrates which are working fine.  I have two questions: 1) How do you measure the alcohol content?  I have a hydrometer which has an alcohol by volume but when it’s time to bottle the wine the hydrometer is reading 0 alcohol by volume because the specific gravity is under 1000 – I don’t understand and do not have time to go to the library. 2) Does anyone know where I can get cheap labels for my wine.  I have been going to the wine supply store for my labels but I’m paying almost $9 for only 32 labels. I would appreciate any help. Thank you, Susan Jacobs

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – (Starting Gravity-Final Gravity) / 7.36 = final % alcohol by vol. Therefore; Starting SG 1.090 = gravity 1090 Final SG .990 = gravity 990 difference = 100 100 / 7.36 = 13.6 For a final alcohol content of 13.6% by volume?       I am by no means an expert on this…    and that’s why I like the triple scale hydrometer.  A quick glance at my hydrometer tells me that a starting SG of 1.090 will yield a potential alcohol content of 12% ( if the ending SG is 1.000 ).  The example is using .990,  which of course is not much different.

A FG of .990 may not seem much different from 1.000, but that difference, at the other end is the difference between 1.090 and 1.100. What does your triple scale hydrometer give for PA with a starting SG of 1.100? Mine says about 13.25, which is a lot closer to 13.6 than to 12.0 HTH Wassail — Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul: Wouldn’t the accohol content of the wine in your hypothetical example be much higher? According to "Tritton’s Formula", the alcohol content is calculated as follows: (Starting Gravity-Final Gravity) / 7.36 = final % alcohol by vol. Therefore; Starting SG 1.090 = gravity 1090 Final SG .990 = gravity 990 difference = 100 100 / 7.36 = 13.6 For a final alcohol content of 13.6% by volume? Thanks; Ed

      I am by no means an expert on this…    and that’s why I like the triple scale hydrometer.  A quick glance at my hydrometer tells me that a starting SG of 1.090 will yield a potential alcohol content of 12% ( if the ending SG is 1.000 ).  The example is using .990,  which of course is not much different.     I do remember reading somewhere that the mathematical formula gives you a higher alcohol content then what can actually be achieved.  Is it possible that the hydrometer scale has taken this into account? Bryan Casper

Response:

Paul: Wouldn’t the accohol content of the wine in your hypothetical example be much higher? According to "Tritton’s Formula", the alcohol content is calculated as follows: (Starting Gravity-Final Gravity) / 7.36 = final % alcohol by vol. Therefore; Starting SG 1.090 = gravity 1090 Final SG .990 = gravity 990 difference = 100 100 / 7.36 = 13.6 For a final alcohol content of 13.6% by volume? Thanks; Ed

Response:

1) How do you measure the alcohol content?  I have a hydrometer which has an alcohol by volume but when it’s time to bottle the wine the hydrometer is reading 0 alcohol by volume because the specific gravity is under 1000

Take a hydrometer reading at the begining of your wine making process- just before you add the yeast. Write it down in your log book, or on a piece of paper taped to you carboy. Take another hydrometer reading when it has finished fermenting. Subtract the difference. If your hydrometer has a triple scale, you can look at the difference in Potential Alcohol, and there’s your answer right there. If you use the SG scale, somebody else will have to tell you the mathematical bit to multiply by to get the amount. Or, spring for a Vinometer. (Mine cost me $5, and it’s glass). On dry wines, it will tell you what the alcohol content is. 2) Does anyone know where I can get cheap labels for my wine.  I have been going to the wine supply store for my labels but I’m paying almost $9 for only 32 labels.

Draw by hand or with computer your own labels. Use sticky label paper found in Office Max or other office supply store, or gluestick, or rubber cement or whatever to apply. Kids love making labels by hand. Me, I do it on the computer, print them out, and use water soluble gluestick. Or I stick them on with milk. Heck, I’ve seen scribbled on masking tape. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

Response:

Removal of gummy labels?

Question:

Liquid dishwasher detergent has worked best for me (former Clorox soaker). It has removed the most stubborn labels. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

Goo -Gone or WD-40 will effectively remove all traces of the glue residue.

Response:

I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

After a long Soak in TSP try using Ethyly Ethathnoate. Its a pretty good solvent for anything — Wassail Tony Barnsley (Blackpool Lancashire UK )

Response:

After a long Soak in TSP try using Ethyly Ethathnoate. Its a pretty good solvent for anything

On the really tough labels I just spray some "WD40" on a scored label and wait 10 minutes.  Comes right off! Type at ‘Ya later … Bob, the old fogey …                "Good Net Buddies Are Hard To Find" ‘wanna make some home Brew?  ’wanna get some Home Brew recipes? Want daily complete Sports update from Auto racing to Zamboni’s            THE IRISH PUB SPORTS AND ENTERTAINMENT BAR                      www.jps.net/oldfogey           ICQ# 2321684 NetMeeting V2.1 & I-Phone V5.0

Response:

One thing I’ve found that works pretty good for removing labels is a potato peeler.  Soak the bottles and then scrape labels with the peeler…hot water and the peeler usually gets the gunk as well. Cheers, Bret Schultz – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Liquid dishwasher detergent has worked best for me (former Clorox soaker). It has removed the most stubborn labels. I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

Hi John, THIS WORKS My wife uses this product called UN-DU  an adhesive remover and works great. Ihave a bottle on my desk and it has a number on it 1 (888) buy-undu  It comes from a company called : Doumar Products inc. in Dallas. and it appears to be pretty inexpensive.  Give them a call! Daniel – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Straight old cheap household ammonia (sp?) does the trick wonderfully. Just dilute a liberal amount in some cold water and soak the bottles overnight. The labels usually fall off. Sometimes there is a stubborn gummy deposit left on the label (often-times not), which you can simply wipe off with a rag soaked in the ammonia solution – it comes straight off – then re-rinse quickly (obviously, I encourage the use of rubber gloves when handling the bottles). Don’t know how the other chemicals mentioned perform (apparently well), but ammonia is much less exotic, easily obtainable and cheaper than bottled water. Cheers, Dean J.

Response:

I have had good success with using vinegar diluted in hot water (just use plain ole white vinegar).  Some labels float right off (but some don’t – I scrape these with a razor blade).  I get any remaining adhesive residue off by scouring with a plastic kitchen scrubber in the hot vinegar solution. Brian P. reverse cuiu to reply – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains.

Try the TSP you asked about or GOO-GONE or other citrus based de-gummer. — heubs Spammers forced me into this. Replace "spamless" with " wf " to respond.

Response:

I sent an email last week to the 3M company, asking about the removal of adhesives.  I have phoned today and asked for a sample of the product they recommended. Here is my email to 3M and their response (their response is first): ***** Stephen, there is a company called Titen Chemical that makes a product called "oil-flow" for adhesive removal. You can give them a call at 800-475-3300 and request a sample. Kathy Fournelle ITSD Converter Markets Inside Sales Representative Content:   I have NEVER found a good way to remove adhesive labels, such as are used   in stores for price-tags, etc.   I have heard MANY "household hints" as to how to do this – use oil,   mayonaisse, nail-polish remover, etc.  NONE of these has ever worked well   for me for the tough adhesives.   What will work, without having to soak for hours?   Acetone doesn’t help.  Should I try Toluene?  (I am reluctant to even try   Toluene!)   I want to remove these labels from glass and metal consumer products.   This is for my own use at home, not for any commercial process.   There must be a solvent for these adhesive materials.  Some of them seem to   be much more adhesive than others, especially after they have been stuck on   for months or years.   Thanks in advance for any information you can give me. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

Well I haven’t heard of TSP as a sanitizer as one responded to your other post but it’s great as a label remover. Dissolve one tablespoon per gallon in warm water. Put the bottles in and the lablels will float off in about ten minutes. Ten minutes later the gum wipes off easily.

No, the gum apparently is not affected by the TSP.

Response:

I use a LONG bleach water soak, then peel off the paper, and scrub the glue off with a fingernail brush. I’ve got a bunch of those amber/ brown 20/22oz bottles too… John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – sudsy ammonia works Doug Evans VinBrew Supply 740/756-4314 Well I haven’t heard of TSP as a sanitizer as one responded to your other post but it’s great as a label remover. Dissolve one tablespoon per gallon in warm water. Put the bottles in and the lablels will float off in about ten minutes. Ten minutes later the gum wipes off easily. The foil labels are the toughest. Soak them for ten minutes then scrape off what you can, then soak them again. Repeat until clean, Burp, -Dan I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

BigJohn You know what to cut!!

Response:

Wow! You must have some nasty gum there. The only bottles I have had trouble with are the foil ones used by Spatten (love that Pils). Although it’s not like I’ve tried to remove labels off of every kind of bottle out there. Burp, -Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well I haven’t heard of TSP as a sanitizer as one responded to your other post but it’s great as a label remover. Dissolve one tablespoon per gallon in warm water. Put the bottles in and the lablels will float off in about ten minutes. Ten minutes later the gum wipes off easily. No, the gum apparently is not affected by the TSP.

Response:

sudsy ammonia works Doug Evans VinBrew Supply 740/756-4314 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well I haven’t heard of TSP as a sanitizer as one responded to your other post but it’s great as a label remover. Dissolve one tablespoon per gallon in warm water. Put the bottles in and the lablels will float off in about ten minutes. Ten minutes later the gum wipes off easily. The foil labels are the toughest. Soak them for ten minutes then scrape off what you can, then soak them again. Repeat until clean, Burp, -Dan I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

You will need to use a petroleum product on this type of label (since the gum is such).  That can be anything like gasoline, paint thinner, kerosene, etc.  I prefer paint thinner. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

Well I haven’t heard of TSP as a sanitizer as one responded to your other post but it’s great as a label remover. Dissolve one tablespoon per gallon in warm water. Put the bottles in and the lablels will float off in about ten minutes. Ten minutes later the gum wipes off easily. The foil labels are the toughest. Soak them for ten minutes then scrape off what you can, then soak them again. Repeat until clean, Burp, -Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have some nice 22 oz. brown bottles that have really gummy labels. The labels are not at all soluable in water. How can I remove that gunk? I’d hate to waste all of these bottles. I’ve tried soaking in hot water w/ bleach, but the paper comes off and the gum remains. Thanks. John

Response:

Mead – A Few Questions

Question:

Oops, that should have been Leuconostoc oenos… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Do people have experience with inducing MLF in meads using Lactobacillus oenos or other strains?

Response:

To all,  Sorry I haven’t been keeping up with this thread. On Susans comment, the honey was unpasteurized. but with sulfite boiling isn’t necissary. On Franks comment, If you don’t ad acid you aren’t making mead you’re making cough syrup, Yeast will make some nasty tasting stuff if not working in a distinctly acid envrionment. Allan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe the difference was whether or not AllanD used pasteurized or unpasteurized honey (shrug). Susan My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank.

       Posted from the Oenology Database http://www.arq.net/db/enology            using SpiderSilk http://www.arq.com/software/spidersilk

Response:

Wow!  This is great.  I had overlooked the possibility of added malic (in my limited experience I have only added tartaric and citric).  The beauty of this seems to be that you could create conditions for MLF if it is desired, but prevent it if not, simply by not adding any malic acid.  So the next question is, does MLF do great things for mead?  (In grape wine of course MLF softens acidity but also increases flavour complexity).  Do people have experience with inducing MLF in meads using Lactobacillus oenos or other strains?  I can feel an experiment coming on… Thanks everyone, Frank.

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2.  To boil or not?  I read that not boiling makes the mead more difficult to clear.  Is it that much more difficult?  Does boiling really reduce aromas and flavors by a significant amount? I’ve always boiled my honey and if not boiling it increases the flavor and aroma then I’m afraid..I’m very afraid.=  I’ve always gotten a very strong flavor and aroma with boiling the honey 1 hour before fermenting.

This is a Very Big controversy among mead makers. I prefer the no-boil, but I also use already pasteurized honey. I have found that the lighter flavored honeys, when boiled and fermented dry have no flavor left. Leaving it sweet, leaves more honey flavors. I have noticed that those mead makers that first made beer tend toprefer to boil for an hour (just like they did with their beer), and those that made wine first seem to think of boiling honey as sacrilige. It IS a personal choice. Experiment, and learn how you like it, and then make it that way. That’s why you should keep a logbook, so you can duplicate the good stuff. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

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I have noticed that those mead makers that first made beer tend toprefer to boil for an hour (just like they did with their beer), and those that made wine first seem to think of boiling honey as sacrilige. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

I find this paragraph very funny as I am deathly allergic to hops and have never even drunk a beer let alone made one. = Beth Ann Snead

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I have noticed that those mead makers that first made beer tend toprefer to boil for an hour (just like they did with their beer), and those that made wine first seem to think of boiling honey as sacrilige. -georg non ani sunt permittendi I find this paragraph very funny as I am deathly allergic to hops and have never even drunk a beer let alone made one. = Beth Ann Snead

I said it was more of a tendency- it’s not a guaranteed rule of them. Make and drink what you will. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

Response:

I have noticed that those mead makers that first made beer tend toprefer to boil for an hour (just like they did with their beer), and those that made wine first seem to think of boiling honey as sacrilige.

Yow! I’ve brewed beer and mead for years, and I’m a "boiler," but long boiling times like this *are* sacrilege. Boil it for an hour? May as well just start with glucose or invert sugar and call the result "purple jesus" like the bucket batches of BYOB punch from the college days. It IS a personal choice. Experiment, and learn how you like it, and then make it that way. That’s why you should keep a logbook, so you can duplicate the good stuff.

Excellent advice. By the way, my best ever mead was made without a drop of water. Instead I used fresh maple sap, right out of the tree — you must boil the sap or else it will spoil. I called the result "guerrila ontology ritual mead" and it was spectacular. While it lasted, it graced many a wedding feast. Jace      Ethics is using free will to choose good over evil. Time Dilation: http://www.nethawk.com/~jcrouch/dilation.htm

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 I suspect that beer makers boil mead because they were unfamilar with sulfite? My first attempt EVER at a fermented beverage was hard cider(15 years ago) and it went acidic. My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) and I never boiled it.  It was excellent when bottled and I expect when it has aged some it will be even better… Allan        Posted from the Oenology Database http://www.arq.net/db/enology            using SpiderSilk http://www.arq.com/software/spidersilk

Response:

My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did)

I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank.

Response:

Maybe the difference was whether or not AllanD used pasteurized or unpasteurized honey (shrug). Susan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank.

Response:

My final suggestion: Try a number of 1-gallon batches before moving to 5 gallons. You’ll get the techniques down pat and learn what works for you. Mead is a great way to experiment. Try spices, fruit, different honey, different yeasts.  Try making some dry and some sweet. Personally, I think you can go wilder making mead than making wine.  Honey provides a great base for a lot of different flavors.

These were all wonderful suggestions and I applaud (and thank) you. I couldn’t have written it better myself. Some spices to play with (when you get ready to just play): cloves, anise, allspice, nutmeg, ginger (slices of root), cinnamon, vanilla beans, mace, cardamom, and anything else that strikes your fancy. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

Response:

Hello, I’ve been doing a lot of research on mead over the last couple months and I’m about ready to brew my first batch.  I’ve a couple questions though. 1.  Some places say mead is ready to drink soon after bottling while other places say it takes at least a year for mead to be drinkable.  This was for a "traditional" mead.  Typically, how long before it is drinkable?

Personal choice.  You may prefer aged or/AND unaged mead.  It’s flavor changes greatly with aging and as far as I’m concerned it’s good anytime. 2.  To boil or not?  I read that not boiling makes the mead more difficult to clear.  Is it that much more difficult?  Does boiling really reduce aromas and flavors by a significant amount?

I’ve always boiled my honey and if not boiling it increases the flavor and aroma then I’m afraid..I’m very afraid.=  I’ve always gotten a very strong flavor and aroma with boiling the honey 1 hour before fermenting. 3.  Finally, any tips you can give me?

Well, the tip I usually give to first time mead makers is to remember to boil your honey. Beth

Response:

Hi Group Composition of Honey – by % Component                    Average              Std. Dev.            Range Moisture                                       17.2            1.5 12.2 – 22.9 Fructose                                       34.8            1.8 30.9 – 44.3 Glucose                                        30.3            3.0 22.0 – 40.7 Sucrose                                        1.3              0.9 0.2 – 7.6 Maltose*                                        7.3             2.1 2.7 – 16.0 Higher Sugars                              1.4             1.1 0.1 – 3.8 Free Acid as Gluconic                0.43            0.16        0.13 – 0.92 Lactone as Gluconolactone        0.14            0.07        0.0 – 0.37 Total Acid as Gluconic                0.57            0.20        0.17 – 1.17 Ash                                                0.169          0.15 0.02 – 1.028 Nitrogen                                        0.041          0.026 0.00 – 0.133 pH                                                   3.91 3.42 – 6.10 Diatase                                        20.8                9.8 2.1 – 62.1 *Reducing disaccharides YEASTS IN HONEY Nematospora ashbya gossypii Saccharomyces bisporus Saccharomyces torulosus Schizosaccharomyces octosporus Schwanniomyces occidentilis Torula mellis Zygosaccharomyces barkeri Zygosaccharomyces japonicus Zygosaccharomyces mellis Zygosaccharomyces mellis acidi Zygosaccharomyces nussbaumeri Zygosaccharomyces priorianus Zygosaccharomyces richteri YEASTS IN GREEN HONEY Torulopsis magnoliae Sacchromyces mellis Torulopsis stellata Torulopsis apicola All of these yeasts are destroyed in 1.0 minutes at 155 deg F (68.3 deg C) Personal preference is not to boil, it serves no useful purpose and destroys the more complex overtones.  There are hundreds of types of honey (determined by the floral source) and each has a different flavor.  If you find one too strong – get a milder one.  Alfalfa would be one of the mildest and buckwheat it the absolute strongest.  Orange blossom is a good middle of the road. Gary Bradshaw GBees Honey Farm,  Beekeeping and Home Brewing Supplies, free catalogs – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Susan, Pasteurization, or not, it would not create malic acid where none existed otherwise.  I believe that Frank is correct and there no malic acid in honey.  I checked what resources I have immediately on hand and they don’t mention it one way or the other.  Does anyone have a definitive source handy that they can cite? Marc Maybe the difference was whether or not AllanD used pasteurized or unpasteurized honey (shrug). Susan My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank. — Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

Response:

what if he added acid blend.  that has malic in it.

That would certainly do it.  Well, Allan, can you clear up this mystery?  Did you add acid blend (or anything else which might have contained malic acid) to that batch? Enquiring minds want to know! Marc Susan, Pasteurization, or not, it would not create malic acid where none existed otherwise… — Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

– Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

Response:

what if he added acid blend.  that has malic in it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Susan, Pasteurization, or not, it would not create malic acid where none existed otherwise.  I believe that Frank is correct and there no malic acid in honey.  I checked what resources I have immediately on hand and they don’t mention it one way or the other.  Does anyone have a definitive source handy that they can cite? Marc Maybe the difference was whether or not AllanD used pasteurized or unpasteurized honey (shrug). Susan My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank. — Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

Response:

My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure?

There is a mead-makers’ acid blend that contains malic acid. I believe generic acid blend also contains malic acid. If you add them, it may undergo MLF. Some simple meads contain fruits. This would also increase the odds of MLF. -georg non ani sunt permittendi

Response:

Susan, Pasteurization, or not, it would not create malic acid where none existed otherwise.  I believe that Frank is correct and there no malic acid in honey.  I checked what resources I have immediately on hand and they don’t mention it one way or the other.  Does anyone have a definitive source handy that they can cite? Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Maybe the difference was whether or not AllanD used pasteurized or unpasteurized honey (shrug). Susan My second attempt(Jan ‘96) was a "Simple Mead" it took 18 months to finish fermenting and clear and in the middle it went malo-lactic in the secondary fermenter (causing something of a panic when it did) I’m most curious about this observation: I didn’t know that honey contained malic acid. Are you sure? Frank.

– Marc Shapiro                     http://www.bigfoot.com/~m_shapiro/ "If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, unless your wife shoots you." — Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery

Response:

1.  Some places say mead is ready to drink soon after bottling

   while other places say it takes at least a year for mead to be  drinkable.  This was for a "traditional" mead.  Typically, how  long before it is drinkable?

It depends on the kind of mead and the strength.  A lower-alcohol, traditional mead could be ready fairly soon.  Stronger alcohol or more spices/fruit/flavorings require longer times to mellow out the flavor.  Either way,  if you can wait at least six month for it to age then do so!  I’ve had batches that were okay within a month of bottling, but they were very good after aging a while.  Also, stronger-flavored honeys like buckwheat take longer to age than milder honey. 2.  To boil or not?  I read that not boiling makes the mead more difficult to clear.  Is it that much more difficult?  Does boiling really reduce aromas and flavors by a significant amount?

Ah!  The big mead controversy.  Yes, boiling will make it easier to clear.  Mead is not really difficult to clear if you don’t boil, it just takes longer.  I personally don’t boil the honey because I’m in no great hurry & it usually needs to age anyway.  I can’t really taste any big difference between boiling and not boiling. Others say they can taste a difference.  I would suggest trying a 1 gallon batch of boiled and not-boiled using the same honey and additives.   Decide for yourself. 3.  Finally, any tips you can give me?

If you’re making a traditional mead, use nutrient!  Especially if you’re concerned with time.  Honey doesn’t have all of the nutrients necessary to make yeast really happy.  It will ferment without them, but it just goes a lot faster if you use a little nutrient.  This isn’t necessary if you’re making a melomel (with fruit).  The fruit will provide the additional nutrients. If you decide to boil, do not leave the pot of water on the stove while you add the honey.  It will fall to the bottom and scorch.  Take the pot off the heat, mix the honey into the water, and return to heat. If you don’t boil, you might want to use sulfites to protect against germs and bacteria, but that’s a personal choice as well.  Some people choose to bring the must up to a high enough temperature to pasteurize it to avoid bacteria and wild yeast, but not high enough to boil & drive off the honey aroma/flavor. Another tip – if it tastes lousy after fermenting, DON’T THROW IT OUT! Sometimes mead tastes like Listerine just after it has finished.   Sometimes it tastes worse.  Six months to a year of aging can work wonders on the worst meads.  Unless you see things growing in it or it tastes like vinegar, give it a chance. My final suggestion: Try a number of 1-gallon batches before moving to 5 gallons.   You’ll get the techniques down pat and learn what works for you.   Mead is a great way to experiment. Try spices, fruit, different honey, different yeasts.  Try making some dry and some sweet.   Personally, I think you can go wilder making mead than making wine.  Honey provides a great base for a lot of different flavors. Good Luck Sheryl Nance-Durst

Response:

Hello, I’ve been doing a lot of research on mead over the last couple months and I’m about ready to brew my first batch.  I’ve a couple questions though. 1.  Some places say mead is ready to drink soon after bottling while other places say it takes at least a year for mead to be drinkable.  This was for a "traditional" mead.  Typically, how long before it is drinkable?

Typically ( I’m probably wrong there) it is drinkable 8 months after bottling.  You could probably drink it sooner…but why monkey with a good thing? 2.  To boil or not?  I read that not boiling makes the mead more difficult to clear.  Is it that much more difficult?  Does boiling really reduce aromas and flavors by a significant amount?

In the recipe I have (Peach Mead) no where does it suggest boiling.  Just the regular hot water and the like as you find with other recipes. 3.  Finally, any tips you can give me?

As much as you may want to sample your results as soon as possible…to get the best flavor…follow the recipe and let it age what it should. Susan

Response:

Hello, I’ve been doing a lot of research on mead over the last couple months and I’m about ready to brew my first batch.  I’ve a couple questions though. 1.  Some places say mead is ready to drink soon after bottling while other places say it takes at least a year for mead to be drinkable.  This was for a "traditional" mead.  Typically, how long before it is drinkable? 2.  To boil or not?  I read that not boiling makes the mead more difficult to clear.  Is it that much more difficult?  Does boiling really reduce aromas and flavors by a significant amount? 3.  Finally, any tips you can give me?   -Kris — I agree with one Bokononist idea.  I agree that all religions, including Bokononism, are nothing but lies.         – Kurt Vonnegut Jr.           "Cat’s Cradle"

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(no subject)

Question:

I want to know more about "mind-map"!!!!!!! What it is?

Response:

Hello If you are discussing mind mapping, it is a technique of brainstorming that yields incredible results, especially among a group of people trying to solve a problem.  We also used it as a therapeutic technique for troubled teens and it was quite successful.  There are quite a few books on the subject.  I would assume that your search engine would give you the appropriate references.  If you cannot find them, feel free to email me directly and I will dig up a few references.  I am retired now, and it that seems as if that work was done in another life — in a way I guess that it was! Regards Jerry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to know more about "mind-map"!!!!!!! What it is?

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The 4th & Vine home vintners’ and brewers’ labelling system Web site has had lots of improvments since coming online just a week or two ago.   There are more label styles displayed and information for dealers about their label database. Have a look at http://www.4th-vine.com Katherine Cochrane      

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Does anyone know were I can get Woodpecker Cider in the St. Louis Mo. area? Ed

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Can anybody help me? I’ve just spent two hours searching wine sites for employment opportunites and I’ve had no joy. Any suggestions as to where I might try? I’ve tried some Jobsearches but they’re so slow and convoluted. Can anyone recommend a good one? Cheers. — Gill Harris at The Web 13 Internet Cafe, Edinburgh, Scotland http://www.presence.co.uk/gill/

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bug off!!!

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Wife and I want to get back into home winemaking (hobby).  Can anyone recommend catalog(s) for materials and supplies to get re-started.

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The Amateur Winemakers of Ontario will be holding their annual convention in Peterborough Ontario the weekend of June 5,6,7

Response:

Jim, Where can I find out more information such as exact location, times and program details? Thanks, Glen Duff Rockwood, Ont – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Amateur Winemakers of Ontario will be holding their annual convention in Peterborough Ontario the weekend of June 5,6,7

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There was a roomer going around about over planting of vines in Cal.’s central valley, and in a couple of years there will be a glut of grapes on the market lowering prices. (abeit plonk grapes, but good for your daily medicinal intake). Anyone in the know care to tell us if there is any truth to it. Len

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sub rec.crafts.winemaking Frank Pucino

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why a quote from roger waters?

sometimes green things are funny.

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why a quote from roger waters?

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Need recipe for hard cider!

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Come and meet Jess and Jen, a couple of great kids having fun in the sun. If you are successful in answering just three questions over the next three weeks starting July 19, 1995 you will be eligible for prizes. Tune in now and get your first CLUE from Jess and Jen! Connect to <URL:http://www.tdg.com/emory/emory.html What will follow after the three weeks promises to more fun in the sun than you may be able to handle. Factory direct products from a great company never before available to so many. The Management

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Are there wine schools in the United States?

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Are there wine schools in the United States?  If so, what are their reputations for training qualified professional wine makers?

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Are there wine schools in the United States.  If so what are their reputations?

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Here’s a good question for all the viticultural experts out there: I’ve got a 9 month old 20 vine plot of Zinfandel going on its own roots in a remote mountainside plot in the SF bay area.  The vines are going nuts – lots of bushy growth from all the cuttings sprawling all over the place so I think they will become well established. The owner of the land (not me) regularly dusts each fall with a pre-emergent to keep the weeds and grass down in the spring and therin lies my question.  Will an application of the following pre-emergent:                 AMAZE PRE-EMERGENT                 BENZEFIN 1%                 ORYZALIN 1%  hurt the vines? I’m assuming that the pre-emergent just stops seed germination but I just want to be safe about it. Thanks for the help,                         Chris Wheaton

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Does anyone know of any software for use in the making of wine ? Perk — Perk Bingham Bainbridge Island, Washington USA "Simply messing about in a boat"

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I recieved an E-mail from someone in Portage, WI. requesting wine making info. I tried to return a message and got a returned mail error. If you wish to contact me, please try again and make sure you send me your real E-mail address. Bryan Casper

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I recieved an E-mail from someone in Portage, WI. requesting wine making info. I tried to return a message and got a returned mail error. If you wish to contact me, please try again and make sure you send me your real E-mail address. Bryan Casper

Hi Mrs Brian I’m an  Italian winemaking.I want to talk to you to do you some I would like to know of what you deal.                 Galassini Tullio

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Does any one have a recipe for this? Recipe for 1 gallon 2 1/2 # ripe elderberries 1 campden tablet 1 pkg wine yeat 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient 1 1/2 cups orange juice 1 tsp acid blend or the juice of two lemons 2 1/2 # sugar crush fruits in 2 gallon bucket.  Boil enough water to make 1 gal and pour over berries.  When cool and campden. Wait 24 hours.  Make yeast starter with the tepid orange juice and nutrients.  Let stand 2 hours add to must.  Add acid blend.  Ferment.  Transfer to secondary (optional). Bottle

Rick

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Does any one have a recipe for this?

This is the recipe I used last year.  My biggest problem was under ripe elderberries.  I hope to be able to get a better batch this year. Note: Elderberries often make a green gummy waxy stuff on the primary.  Wash with COLD water ’cause hot water will spread it. ELDERBERRY WINE – 5 Gallons 15 lbs elderberries 5 campden tables OR 1/4 tsp metabisulfite yeast nutrient pectic enzyme acid blend sugar yeast After picking deep colored elderberries, freeze.  Remove the stems and put into a straining bag.  Put the fruit bag into a primary.  Pour 5 gallons hot water over the bag.  Add campden or meta and pectic enzyme.  Let sit overnight. Next day adjust acid to .70 or add acid blend (my recipe says 10 tsp but it depends on the type of acid blend you are using).  Adjust sugar to 1.085, add yeast nutrient and yeast starter. Rack when s.g. is 1.020 and remove skins.  Elderberries are high in tannin.   If you have good color and flavor, you can remove the bag earlier.  Rack again in 3  weeks and again add campden tablets or metabisulfite. Cold stabilize and rack. Bottle when clear. I have fermented with wild grapes, or blended with red grape wine.  It adds more body and fills in some of the ‘missing’ parts of elderberry wine. Elderberries can be dried and used for future years. Don      *Just a hardware guy in a software world.* All above is my opinion, not the opinion of 3M Company.

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   Elderberry wine is one of the world’s great drinks if you can get the flavour without getting the tannin as well. After years of trial and error I have found that the ideal way is to bring 3 lbs of berries per gallon to the boil, in     enough water to cover them adequately, and simmer them briefly – for no more than a minute. Strain the berries out and when the juice is cool add the pectin enzyme and the boiled juice of 1 lb of bananas (optional).    After 24-36 hours add 1 lb of white sugar and 1 lb of soft brown sugar (both boiled in a reasonable amount of water, so the yeast can deal with the sugar efficiently), plus 1 teaspoon of citric or tartaric acid, the yeast (from a starter bottle) and the yeast nutrient.    A week later rack and add 1 lb of golden syrup or malt extract dissolved in hot water, and  up to 1 lb of boiled raisins or muscatels (strained out after a week). Ferment out in a closed container with an airlock. When fermentation is finished, sweeten to taste, if necessary, as elderberry is best slightly sweet. I have not tasted a good dry elderberry yet.    This is very good to drink after a year and keeps on improving. The proportions of white and brown sugar, golden syrup and/or malt extract can be varied to suit your taste. I have not worked out the best combination yet, but try to keep the total sugar about 3 lbs to the gallon, depending on the power of the yeast you use. My yeast uses 3 lbs of sugar & comes out dry!   The worst part of making elderberry wine is getting the berries off the stalks. I use a carton covered with metal birdnetting (ideally covered with polyurethane) and throw as many bunches on as possible. I push them round vigorously until most of the berries have fallen through, then strip the remaining ones by hand (gloved!). I dealt with just over 100 lbs of berries that way this year and stayed sane.   [Alexa: I tried to email you about this but got the "host unknown" reply.]                            John Button

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Does anyone have a recipe for Elderberry wine?

Elderberry wine — spiced. Cover the stripped elderberries with cold, water, stirring & mashing occasionally for 3/4 days. Strain & add 3 i/2 lbs of sugar, 2oz ginger, 1/2 oz cloves, pinch of allspice per gallon liquid. boil for 1/2 hour , restrain, cool, add yeast, ferment, rack, bottle booze.– Elderberry simple 1 gallon stripped elderberries, 2 galllons water, 12lb sugar, 1/2 oz yeast, 3 oz bruised whole ginger. Boil all together(EXCEPT yeast), strain into jars, leave till lukewarm then add yeast, ferment, rack, mature, bottle. Karin "Welcome is the best dish in the kitchen"

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Does anyone have a recipe for Elderberry wine?

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Does any one have a recipe for this?

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The problem is that the word for white (candidus) could also mean _clear_ or _shining_, the word translated as red (fuscus) in my edition could also mean something like _dark_, _opaque_, _unclear_, _muddy_ or so… So: Does this recipe really turn red into white wine? Or is it just a method to clear the wine? To get rid of some dust?

Wellllll…..  I suspect that it’s just a method to clear cloudy wine.   Aurguably the egg whites could strip the red wine of some colour components, but I suspect that it wouldn’t do it to the point of producing white wine. Don Winemaking links & FTP, rec.crafts.winemaking FAQ, Missing Link Rover Crew (Mtl Que Can), wax & firstarters FAQ, Scouting FTP site, Super Scout(er) page, Star Trek links & FTP, and Help Stop Newsgroup Spam!

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear readers, I just looked into this group to clarify a problem I encountered when browsing through the Roman cookbook known as APICIUS. In the first part, there is a recipe which could be translated as "How to make white wine out of red wine": Just put a few egg-whites in the red wine, shake, and wait till the next morning. The problem is that the word for white (candidus) could also mean _clear_ or _shining_, the word translated as red (fuscus) in my edition could also mean something like _dark_, _opaque_, _unclear_, _muddy_ or so… So: Does this recipe really turn red into white wine? Or is it just a method to clear the wine? To get rid of some dust? Any ideas? Thanks, Matthias Bode x

[This is what we normally do to remove cloudiness from wine, not dust but finer hazes. Your alternate translation is the most likely one. However, the pigment in some red wine grapes, such as alicante boschuet (sp?) will drop out over time, leaving it, if not white, something like a rose'. But I don't think this would happen overnight, even with the use of eggwhite. You might make an experiment, though. It sounds like Apicius was talking about a small quantity of wine when he mentioned shaking it.] Andrew Werby – United Artworks http://users.lanminds.com/~drewid

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So: Does this recipe really turn red into white wine? Or is it just a method to clear the wine? To get rid of some dust? Matthias Bode

This is definately talking about clearing a cloudy wine.  The use of eggwhites to fine (clarify) wine has been documented at least as far back as the Romans. Other fining methods of equal antiquity include the use of diatomacious earth (clay) such as bentonite, gelatin from fish swim bladders, and ox blood.  I have personally used all of these methods except for the ox blood.  A person has to draw the line somewhere. —                                 See my WEB page:  The Meadery at                                 http://www.webbuild.com/~mshapiro/                                                   or                                 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/1265/ THL Alexander Mareschal         Canton of Kappelenburg                                 Barony of Windmasters Hill                                 Kingdom of Atlantia   In Wine there is truth. – Pliny the Elder (23 CE – 79 CE)     Good wine praises itself. – Arab proverb       Water separates the people of the world, wine unites them. – Anonymous

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Dear readers, I just looked into this group to clarify a problem I encountered when browsing through the Roman cookbook known as APICIUS. In the first part, there is a recipe which could be translated as "How to make white wine out of red wine": Just put a few egg-whites in the red wine, shake, and wait till the next morning. The problem is that the word for white (candidus) could also mean _clear_ or _shining_, the word translated as red (fuscus) in my edition could also mean something like _dark_, _opaque_, _unclear_, _muddy_ or so… So: Does this recipe really turn red into white wine? Or is it just a method to clear the wine? To get rid of some dust? Any ideas? Thanks, Matthias Bode x

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If someone hase some was to make wine from cider can you please post them or e-mail me.

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If someone hase some was to make wine from cider can you please post them or e-mail me.

Excellent information at Cider Space:    http://www.teleport.com/~incider/ Check out Cider Documentation, then look at The Science of Cider. and at Cat’s Meow3:    http://alpha.rollanet.org/cm3/CatsMeow3.html If it comes out good, don’t hesitate to send a bottle by. David

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no te tengo respuesta

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I need information about this new red wine fermentation system. I mean the double tank fermentation. Do you know which winery has this tanks? Thanks, Sven Bruchfeld Dpt. de Fruticultura y Enolog

ALERT: Taxes alert for canadian home winemakers

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Hello Michel, Thank you for the information you provided on the tax and regulation situation regarding homebrews.  I don’t really pay too much attention to newspapers and such so this is pretty much the most information that I have heard about it.  Anyhow I share your concern and I would like to know of any concerted effort that is being made to protest this.  You mention that we could address our concerns towards the ministre de finances, but I would like to know if there is any specific points or voice that you feel that should be address.  Perhaps some sort of consolidated effort would have more impact than a small number of seemingly unorganized letters. Could you provide us with a little more direction? Thanks Scott Morrison – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The following is a press release from the Canadian Home Wine Trade Association, regarding new tax on beer and wine making ingredients (kits, grapes, juice, malt, malt extract etc…)sold in  the province of Quebec as of may 16, 1996. No doubt that the Federal and other provincial governements will look closely to the situation and then consider charging GST/PST on winekits and grapes as the Quebec governement does now. On top of that the govrnement forces retailers and wholesalers of homw wine and beer supplies to obtain a permit from the "regie des alcools, des courses et des jeux" who have the mandat to control the distribution of such supplies. Please help us in our strugle by emailling your concern to the following email address: PRESS RELEASE HOME WINE AND BEER  MAKERS TO PAY MORE To combat  the trade of illegal booze, the  Minister of Finance announced in its budget  that the QST will be payable on the purchase of products and equipment intended for the manufacture of home-made beer or wine. "Quebecers making wine or beer for personal consumption is not part of the illegal trade in booze" said Michel Rousseau, president of Canadian Home Wine and Trade Association (CHWTA). Currently, there is no QST on wine and beer kits, or grapes, as they are referred to as food products.  Now, the government wants to tax grapes, grape juice or grape must if they are sold in a home wine or brew shop. These produces, however,  purchased in the grocery store will not be taxed.  The equipment used to make beer and wine is currently taxed.   The government is also making an exception on how the tax is applied under harmonization.  Currently,  the beer and wine kits are considered basic food products and in the rest of Canada they are not taxed at either the PST or GST level.  Now, the government want to change the status of these products by imposing a tax specifically directed at the home made beer and wine industry. Rousseau stated that "that tax will be costly to the small businesses as they will need to change their cash register system." In 1993, the NDP in Ontario imposed a 26 cents per litre tax on beer or wine made in stores. The result was approximately a 40 percent bankruptcy rate. The increase in tax had no impact on commercial beer or wine sales in Ontario. The home made wine and beer industry in Quebec has been under attack by the commercial beer and wine makers.  SAQ also see this industry as taking away their sales. By taxing the industry the government wants to stop individuals from making  their own beer or wine, as part of their move to curtail illegal booze. "The tax will just devastate the industry and will have no impact on government sales of wine or beer, nor on smuggling or bootlegging" stated Rousseau. The government also announced that a special permit will be required for wholesalers and retailers of wine and beer  products and equipment used for personal consumption. "The licensing of this sector will be costly to the industry and may result in loss jobs"  Currently, wholesalers and retailers of wine and beer products for personal consumption are not licensed.   The taxation and licensing of the home made beer and wine industry is to combat smuggling and bootlegging in the province.  The government, however, has never produced any statistics to directly link individuals who make their own wine or beer.   "The government is blaming those individuals who make their own beer and wine on smuggling and bootlegging and this is just not the case" stated Rousseau. For further information call: Mr. Michel Rousseau President Canadian Home Made and Wine Association c/o Distrivin (514) 442-4487

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The following is a press release from the Canadian Home Wine Trade Association, regarding new tax on beer and wine making ingredients (kits, grapes, juice, malt, malt extract etc…)sold in  the province of Quebec as of may 16, 1996. No doubt that the Federal and other provincial governements will look closely to the situation and then consider charging GST/PST on winekits and grapes as the Quebec governement does now. On top of that the govrnement forces retailers and wholesalers of homw wine and beer supplies to obtain a permit from the "regie des alcools, des courses et des jeux" who have the mandat to control the distribution of such supplies. Please help us in our strugle by emailling your concern to the following email address: PRESS RELEASE HOME WINE AND BEER  MAKERS TO PAY MORE To combat  the trade of illegal booze, the  Minister of Finance announced in its budget  that the QST will be payable on the purchase of products and equipment intended for the manufacture of home-made beer or wine. "Quebecers making wine or beer for personal consumption is not part of the illegal trade in booze" said Michel Rousseau, president of Canadian Home Wine and Trade Association (CHWTA). Currently, there is no QST on wine and beer kits, or grapes, as they are referred to as food products.  Now, the government wants to tax grapes, grape juice or grape must if they are sold in a home wine or brew shop. These produces, however,  purchased in the grocery store will not be taxed.  The equipment used to make beer and wine is currently taxed.   The government is also making an exception on how the tax is applied under harmonization.  Currently,  the beer and wine kits are considered basic food products and in the rest of Canada they are not taxed at either the PST or GST level.  Now, the government want to change the status of these products by imposing a tax specifically directed at the home made beer and wine industry. Rousseau stated that "that tax will be costly to the small businesses as they will need to change their cash register system." In 1993, the NDP in Ontario imposed a 26 cents per litre tax on beer or wine made in stores. The result was approximately a 40 percent bankruptcy rate. The increase in tax had no impact on commercial beer or wine sales in Ontario. The home made wine and beer industry in Quebec has been under attack by the commercial beer and wine makers.  SAQ also see this industry as taking away their sales. By taxing the industry the government wants to stop individuals from making  their own beer or wine, as part of their move to curtail illegal booze. "The tax will just devastate the industry and will have no impact on government sales of wine or beer, nor on smuggling or bootlegging" stated Rousseau. The government also announced that a special permit will be required for wholesalers and retailers of wine and beer  products and equipment used for personal consumption. "The licensing of this sector will be costly to the industry and may result in loss jobs"  Currently, wholesalers and retailers of wine and beer products for personal consumption are not licensed.   The taxation and licensing of the home made beer and wine industry is to combat smuggling and bootlegging in the province.  The government, however, has never produced any statistics to directly link individuals who make their own wine or beer.   "The government is blaming those individuals who make their own beer and wine on smuggling and bootlegging and this is just not the case" stated Rousseau. For further information call: Mr. Michel Rousseau President Canadian Home Made and Wine Association c/o Distrivin (514) 442-4487

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Homebrew on Airplanes???

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I DON’T GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT MY HOMEBREW. I CHOOSE TO TRAVEL WITH A COUPLE OF 2 LITER POP BOTTLES FILLED WITH MY FAVORITE BATCH. I PACK THESE BOTTLES IN MY CHECKED IN LUGGAGE. ONE AREA OF CONCERN IS THAT THE YEAST CAN GET REMIXED IN THE BEER. I CAN TAKE A COUPLE OF DAYS TO RESEDIMENT OUT. I NOW COUNTER PRESSURE BOTTLE FROM A KEG TO AVERT THIS PROBLEM. SEVERAL ADVANTAGES OF USEING THE POP BOTTLES ARE THIER LIGHT WEIGHT,DURABILITY AND LOW COST, SO DISCARDING THEM AFTER USE IS NOT A CONCERN. GIVE THEM A TRY. IAN

Shhh; you’ll wake the baby. (Turn off the capslock, willya?)   It’s not *necessary* to check it.  I’ve carried it on plenty of times. As long as you don’t open it on the plane, they’re fine with it. The researches of many commentators have already thrown much darkness on this subject and it is probable that,if they continue,we shall soon know nothing at all about it.   –   Mark Twain

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I DON’T GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT MY HOMEBREW. I CHOOSE TO TRAVEL WITH A COUPLE OF 2 LITER POP BOTTLES FILLED WITH MY FAVORITE BATCH. I PACK THESE BOTTLES IN MY CHECKED IN LUGGAGE. ONE AREA OF CONCERN IS THAT THE YEAST CAN GET REMIXED IN THE BEER. I CAN TAKE A COUPLE OF DAYS TO RESEDIMENT OUT. I NOW COUNTER PRESSURE BOTTLE FROM A KEG TO AVERT THIS PROBLEM. SEVERAL ADVANTAGES OF USEING THE POP BOTTLES ARE THIER LIGHT WEIGHT,DURABILITY AND LOW COST, SO DISCARDING THEM AFTER USE IS NOT A CONCERN. GIVE THEM A TRY. IAN

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Question : Can homebrew travel on a US domestic carrier ?? That is, are there any regs preventing it ? Are there any pressurization problems ? This has been talked about many times before. I have brought quite a few 6-packs of beer (bought commercial and homebrewed) in my carry-on and in my checked-in bags (be careful the way you pack them), and have yet to report a problem.   Except perhaps an X-Ray operator that gave me a huge smile and started laughing the moment I was 5 feet away! :) BTW, don’t mention the content of your bags to anyone, the dimwits at the counter may give you a hard time.   Jean-Pierre Boileau, Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

This has been my experience too.  When you run your carry-on through the X-Ray scanner, they can see they’re bottles, so they want to take a look and check the seals.  I used to tell them it’s homemade beer, but I don’t volunteer that information anymore.   These people running the security stations always seem to think they have to make some funny comment about it, or they act surprised and want to take up my time asking me all kinds of questions.  Thanks for the interest, but I’d rather get to my gate in time.   —     To seek out GNU life and GNU civilizations

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Question : Can homebrew travel on a US domestic carrier ?? That is, are there any regs preventing it ? Are there any pressurization problems ? Relatives are stopping over before taking a flight back home. One of the ‘folks’ back home that won’t be making the trip wants to sample my homebrew. How do I get the homebrew to him ??   I have some time to plan because they won’t get here till nearly christmas. |          http://bluejay.creighton.edu/~bhhorn           | | Creighton University               (402) 280-2366       | | 2500 California                    (402) 280-2573 FAX   | | Omaha Ne 68178   USA                                    | | Opinions expressed are my own, not necessarily those of | | my employer.                                            | | Subvert the Dominant Paradigm                           |

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: Question : Can homebrew travel on a US domestic carrier ?? : That is, are there any regs preventing it ? : Are there any pressurization problems ? : Relatives are stopping over before taking a flight back home. One of the : ‘folks’ back home that won’t be making the trip wants to sample my homebrew. : How do I get the homebrew to him ??   : I have some time to plan because they won’t get here till nearly christmas. I have brought as much as a 12-pack of homebrew in my carry-on bag with no problem at all.  Sometimes they will want to look at each bottle to make sure it is sealed properly (a security measure I guess) but other times they just wave me through.  I don’t know about using baggage check-in, I wouldn’t want to trust either the pressurization (or lack of) or a thirsty (or careless) baggage handler. — [ Any similarities between my opinions and my employers' is purely coincidental (IMHO)...]

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Question : Can homebrew travel on a US domestic carrier ?? That is, are there any regs preventing it ?

No.  In fact, a friend going to Venezuela took a six pack with him there, openly declared. Are there any pressurization problems ?

No.  Last time I flew I took my barometric watch with me to see what altitude readings I got in flight.  Looks like the cabins on domestic flights are pressurized around 7500 feet or so.  That’s lower than most passes in Colorado. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Relatives are stopping over before taking a flight back home. One of the ‘folks’ back home that won’t be making the trip wants to sample my homebrew. How do I get the homebrew to him ??   I have some time to plan because they won’t get here till nearly christmas. |          http://bluejay.creighton.edu/~bhhorn           | | Creighton University               (402) 280-2366       | | 2500 California                    (402) 280-2573 FAX   | | Omaha Ne 68178   USA                                    | | Opinions expressed are my own, not necessarily those of | | my employer.                                            | | Subvert the Dominant Paradigm                           |

– *"640K ought to be enough for anybody."        * *       — Bill Gates, CEO of Microsoft, 1981  *

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Question : Can homebrew travel on a US domestic carrier ?? That is, are there any regs preventing it ? Are there any pressurization problems ? Relatives are stopping over before taking a flight back home. One of the ‘folks’ back home that won’t be making the trip wants to sample my homebrew. How do I get the homebrew to him ??   I have some time to plan because they won’t get here till nearly christmas.

This has been talked about many times before. I have brought quite a few 6-packs of beer (bought commercial and homebrewed) in my carry-on and in my checked-in bags (be careful the way you pack them), and have yet to report a problem. Except perhaps an X-Ray operator that gave me a huge smile and started laughing the moment I was 5 feet away! :) BTW, don’t mention the content of your bags to anyone, the dimwits at the counter may give you a hard time. Jean-Pierre Boileau, Montreal, Quebec, Canada. Proud founding member of The Montreal Brewers Club. Fiere Membre-Fondateur du Club de Brasseurs de Montreal.

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I usually bring a twelve pack (in a cardboard 12 pack holder) taped up really good on my trips to the east coast.  I just carry it on the plane with me and store it under the seat in front of me, or in an overhead bin.  I have not had any trouble so far (bottles exploding, complaints from crew members) in the 6 or so times that I have done this.  YMMV.

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To cater or not to cater

Question:

I was wondering about caterers for medium small weddings.  As you may or may not know, we are having the whole shebang in our backyard and expect 50-100 people for a mid-afternoon celebration of homemade beer, delightful snacks, and a variety of desserts. I am not sure if a caterer is necessary and was wondering if anyone in a similar (or not) situation has decided for or against and their reasons why.  

I don’t think that a caterer is particularly necessary, but you may want to consider hiring some staff to help out.  For about $50 per staff person, you could have people whose responsibility would be to do the stuff you really don’t want to have to worry about, say, like clean up. Also, you may want to consider hiring a bartender and/or get additional liquor liability insurance in order to protect yourself and your assets. Beth Mazur         "I ain’t the woman in red, I ain’t the girl next door. uunet!inmet!mazur   I’m that kind of girl."              – Patty Loveless

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I was wondering about caterers for medium small weddings.  As you may or may not know, we are having the whole shebang in our backyard and expect 50-100 people for a mid-afternoon celebration of homemade beer, delightful snacks, and a variety of desserts. I am not sure if a caterer is necessary and was wondering if anyone in a similar (or not) situation has decided for or against and their reasons why.   We can come up with the food and serving dishes (my mom had her own catering biz for awhile).  Our friends and families would not be offended by asking to help pick up trash and tidy up at the end of the afternoon.   We are not leaving for a honeymoon following the reception (we won’t leave for six months, actually, and then it will be for a trip we’ve been planning longer than the wedding – but I digress [as usual] :) . What else am I missing?  I tend to obsess about details (not a handy habit to have when planning a wedding), so I was thinking that if I *paid* a caterer, then I might be able to decide to leave everything in their hands and have one less thing to worry about.  Does this really work?  It seems there are enough bad luck stories that one really should keep track of even catering details. But if I have to keep track of a lot anyway, then perhaps I should just do all of it.  If I don’t really need their help, I’d rather spend the money on decorations and other stuff. (photography, Mark?)  We have several relatives and friends we can probably coerce into helping on the WD with setting up.  It shouldn’t be complicated, since there will be a few tables of food, but no sit down meal.  And I like selecting interesting foods and meal planning, etc. So what do you think?  Can a caterer really reduce anxiety?  Are there hidden problems with ‘doing it myself?’ (Although I may want to, I am preparing myself to force myself NOT to actually DO anything [food-wise] the day of the wedding, just the advance planning).   We have (or will by the time of the wedding) a new kitchen (Jim’s been doing a great job) and a separate freezer.  I think I change my mind on this every other day. Selene (who can definitely understand the appeal of a professional coordinator at this point)

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